Craps – Introduction

The most exciting game in the casino or online casino is undoubtedly craps. Most of the shouting and rooting can be traced to the dice games, and for good reason. Craps can be the most favourable game in the casino if you understand how to take advantage of its attractive bets.

Blackjack players approach their game with the studiousness of professors. Roulette players are like cartographers, mapping their way around the multi-numbered layout.
Baccarat players are serious gamblers, with their emotions riding the game’s twists and turns. And slot machine players stare at their machines with a mind-numbing expression,
only breaking their rhythm to celebrate wins.

But over in the corner, you hear some yelling and rooting, it seems like the most exciting place in the entire casino. You see a crowd of people gathered around what appears to be a pit, but is actually a craps game. Craps, or dice, is easily the
casino’s most thrilling game. When the dice are falling the right way, there are few other experiences that rival it.

As mentioned previously, craps is not a very popular game in Europe, and particularly the UK. Perhaps that is because, for centuries, all dice games were banned in England because King Charles I was distraught when his soldiers whiled away their time playing these games instead of preparing for battle. Legalized in the 1970s, dice games have never caught on, perhaps because the excitement and enthusiasm generated at the craps table never seemed very “British”. But with the coming liberalization of gaming laws, UK punters would be well advised to reconsider their initial impressions about this exciting and potentially profitable game.

Place bets in Craps

Another way to bet multiple numbers at a craps game is to “place” your bets. These bets can be made at any time. To place a bet, following the come-out roll, you simply tell the dealer you’d like to “place the six” or any of the other place numbers – four, five, six, eight, nine and ten – you’d like to take.

Unlike the come-line bets, the dealer must take the chips from you and place the bets. In no situation should the player ever reach above the come line, which is the unofficial dividing point between the players and the dealers. He places the chips in a corresponding position to your playing position at the table, so he can easily identify which bets belong to which players.

The odds for the place numbers are as follows:

•    For the four and ten, 9-5;

•    For the five and nine, 7-5;

•    For the six and eight, 7-6.

Place and buy bets can only be set up by the dealer. To make this bet, simply tell the dealer you want to “place” a particular number. Place bets are not paid at true odds, while buy bets are because you pay a commission to ‘buy” those bets.

Right now you’re saying “Why should I place on the four or ten at odds of 9-5, when I can bet a come bet, place the odds and get 2-1 ?”

The answer is that on the come line, you’ve got to wait for the number to hit before you can take odds. And you’ll get no odds if you bet the come; your bet will simply be moved to the place bet box number. Then you have to wait for the number to hit a second time before you get a payout.

If you place a number, you get paid the first time it hits. But you suffer by placing your number bets. The casino advantage for the four and ten is a large 6.7 per cent. For the five and nine, the edge is four per cent, and for the six and eight, it’s a more reasonable 1.5 per cent.

It is only advisable to take the six and eight because of the small advantage, as well as the fact that six and eight are the second-most likely combinations to be rolled apart from the seven.

If you do bet these numbers, you must make the exact bets, or you won’t get a full payout. For instance, you must bet £6 to win £7 on the six and eight. For the five and nine, £5 will get you £7, and for the four and ten, £5 will win £9. If you’re betting higher, bet in multiples of those amounts. Anything less, and the house will further expand its advantage.

Place bets can be taken down at any time. Simply ask the dealer to “Take me down” and you’ll get all your bets back. Place bets are also “off’ or “not working” on the come-out roll.

Craps – Simple yet complicated

Because the table layout has multiple areas in which to place bets, and the amount and payout of those bets vary, modem players have abandoned craps to concentrate on simpler, less confusing games. But those players are missing out on one of the last bastions of true gambling.
 
The activity at a craps game is very confusing to a novice. Players throw chips to the dealer yelling what seems to be a secret code, such as “Give me a hard eight for five,” “C and E for a deuce!” “I’ll take a two-way.”

It’s easy to see why observers are mystified by this repartee, but many of these bets are ones that the knowledgeable craps player will not make. Many people play craps but very few play it skillfully, and there lies the difference in a game that wins a great deal of money for the house but, at the same time, treats the intelligent player very well.

To understand why the house makes so much money at the craps table, you first have to understand the maths. There are only so many ways to roll specific numbers on the two dice you use in craps. For instance, there is only one way to roll the two or 12. The true odds of that occurring are 35-1. But the casino does not payoff your bet at the correct ratio; for the two (or 12), you only get 30-1. That gives the casino a rather hefty house advantage of nearly 14 per cent on that bet. So you see, when the house takes such a big percentage of what you’re supposed to get on that bet, the intelligent craps player will avoid those bets.

Buying the luck in Craps

Another way of getting the true odds is to “”buy”” the numbers. When you buy the numbers, the house charges a five per cent commission. But since most casinos only deal with £1 chips as the lowest denomination, and the house will charge you a minimum of £1 no matter how small your bet is, you should be betting at least £20 on each number, since £1 is five per cent of £20. So if you want to buy the five, for example, you’d give the dealer £21. The dealer will place £20 on the number, and put £1 into the bank.

The rationale for buying numbers is that you get the true payout, which lowers the house advantage, but not  sufficiently to make it a good bet. The true odds payouts are as follows:

•    For the four and ten, 2-1;
•    For the five and nine, 3-2;
•    For the six and eight, 6-5.

Because you pay the one per cent commission, or “”vig”” and get paid at the true odds, the house has the same advantage for all the numbers, 4.76 per cent.

So you can see, it’s more advantageous to place the six and eight, and the five and nine, because the house advantage for those bets when they are placed is less than the buy option. Only the four and ten is a better “”buy””, if you’ll excuse the expression.

The dealer places a small plastic “”buy”” disc on top of any buy bet to indicate how the bet should be paid.

Point Cards – A Texas Hold’em strategy

Many a wise man or woman have said that Poker is an easy game, it’s gets kind of annoying to hear doesn’t it after the 10th+ deposit into your poker account.

Well I’m hear to tell you that in its core Poker is actually fairly simple but specifically Texas Hold’em. What I’ll show you in this article is a very simple points system which will ensure that you play a nice and tight game of Texas Hold’em. Please bare in mind that this strategy is intended for fairly low stakes ring games i.e NOT for tournaments although it could easily be adapted to fit almost any Poker variant.

It works by assigning points to the various cards in a deck as follows:

  • Ace – 16 points
  • King – 14 points
  • Queen – 13 points
  • Jack – 12 points
  • 10 – 11 points
  • All the other cards are given a points value corresponding to their number, i.e 5 is 5 points etc.
  • If your two "hole" cards are of the same suit then that is an extra 4 points to your total.
  • Additionally you get awarded an extra 10 points for any pair so 2 Kings would give you 38 points (14×2 + 10).
  • If the two cards are one after the other, e.g 7,8 then give yourself 3 extra points.
  • If seperated by 2, e.g 8,10 then add an extra 2 points to the total
  • And if the two cards are separated by 3 then you can give yourself 1 point.

The next thing to understand is your position on the poker table, for the sake of this strategy I will assume you are playing on a longhand table which means there are 10 players in total, as opposed to shorthand with 6 people. This table of 10 players can be split into three zones, or positions. The first three seats to the left of the "Big Blind" form the Early position, the next three seats are in the middle position and the other 4 seats are referred to as the late position.

The strategy is as simple as this: For you to play your hand you need to have a certain number of points, these are as follows:

  • If you are sitting in the early position you should have at least 30 points to play your hand.
  • In the middle position you should have a points total of 27.
  • If you are sitting in the more comfortable late position then 25 points should be enough for you to enter the hand.

The points totals above assume that no one has raised the big blind, if they have then you should always assume they have good cards, it is a very dangerous strategy to think someone is bluffing and play your weakish hand against what you think might be their weak hand! In any case this strategy says that for you to play against someone who has raised then you would need an extra 4 points in each position, i.e 34 in Early, 31 in Middle and 29 in late positions.

If you follow this strategy on beginner to intermediate tables then it will give you a good start and over time you can start to add more sophistication to your play like trying to trap other players and occasionally trying a bluff but stick to this system until you are comfortable and winning money rather than constantly giving it to the other players.

Video Poker – Double Your money and risk

DOUBLE YOUR MONEY
Some video-poker machines have an option that allows you to risk the winnings on a hand for a chance at doubling your money. While many players believe that this is simply another ploy by the casino to take your remaining stake, it’s actually one of the best bets in the casino. It’s exactly 50–50 that you will be able to double your money. No house edge; no tricks. So what’s the catch?

You may double as many times as you wish, and because the odds are even, you’ll eventually lose. It’s a risk the casino is willing to take, but by examining the law of diminishing returns, it’s one that will be risky for the player.

While each decision is exactly 50–50, the odds of winning more than one in a row decrease sharply. After the first hand, you’re not gambling on the individual hands, you’re gambling on the sequence, and that is stacked heavily in the casino’s favour.

 

DOUBLE YOUR RISKS
From the Double Your Risk chart, above, you can see that the chances of winning your double diminish the more times you attempt to buck the odds against the sequential wins. The odds against winning ten in a row before you begin to double is less than one tenth of one per cent. Not very good odds, although the odds against winning any individual double down is 50–50.

Some players will try to suggest that the machine “”knows”” when you are doubling a high win. That’s nonsense. You can see that the casino wants you to try to double as many times as possible, but there is no need to rig the machines. You’re already bucking some pretty big odds for more than two in a row. The casino is very happy to offer you 50–50 odds on each bet. Try it at your own risk.

Video Poker – Deuces Wild

The other popular wild-card video-poker game is Deuces Wild. Because it has four wild cards, it complicates the strategy that is necessary to succeed at the machines. Just as in other varieties of video poker, it’s important to note the pay table on Deuces Wild. But it’s not as easy as with Jacks-or-better. Casino executives have discovered several different ways to alter the pay tables that will alter the payout percentages.

DEUCES WILD PAYOUT PERCENTAGES
The pay tables above are just three examples of Deuces Wild games available today. The small variations in the pay table are the reason for the variation in payout percentage for expert play.

WORKING THE DEUCES
The object of Deuces Wild, obviously, is to obtain the wild cards to get those valuable hands. But what does it mean when you start off the hand with Deuces? Even in the highest paying version of Deuces Wild – at 100.6 per cent you will receive No Deuce hands 66 per cent of the time, which means that 80 per cent of your hands will be losers. Another 14 per cent will be the minimum three-of-a-kind winner, which is actually just a tie. So if you don’t get a Deuce before the draw, you will actually win only six per cent of the time.

When you get one Deuce in the initial hand – only 30 per cent of the time – 45 per cent of your hands will be losers, and another 38 per cent will get the three-of-a-kind push, leaving only 17 per cent that will actually win. Another nine per cent will be near-minimum winners as straights and flushes. Two Deuces in the initial hand – dealt only four per cent of the time – means that you must take every advantage of this hand, despite the fact that 70 per cent of these hands will wind up being flushes or lower. About one in four will end up as four-of-a-kind, and one in 98 will wind up as five-of-a-kind.

 

DEUCES STRATEGY
The following strategy is a little more complicated than the other two versions covered in this article. Some basic rules are not to play any machine that does not pay 5-1 for four-of-a-kind. And most important of all, even if you’ve got a shot at a natural royal, do not discard any Deuce!

1 Stand with any natural winning hand, except for a natural straight flush starting with Nine. Discard the Nine and go for the royal.
2 Draw one card to a straight flush.
3 Draw one card to a royal flush.
4 Draw two cards to a royal flush.
5 With two pair, discard one pair and draw three cards.
6 Draw one card to a flush.
7 Draw one card to a straight.
8 Draw two cards to a straight flush.
9 Draw three cards to a Queen-Jack, Ten-Jack, or Jack-Ten suited.
10 Draw two cards to a suited Six-Seven and a Deuce.
11 Draw one card to a three-card royal and one Deuce.
12 Draw one card to a four-card straight with one Deuce.
13 Stand on any winning hand with one Deuce. Break up a flush, straight or three-of-a-kind for any four-card royal flush, or four-card straight flush.
14 Draw one card to a suited Six-Seven or better with two Deuces.
15 Draw one card to a four-card royal with two Deuces.
16 Draw one card to four-of-a-killd with two Deuces.
17 Stand on five 10s or better with three Deuces.
18 Stand on royal flush with three Deuces.
19 Stand on five-of-a-killd with four Deuces.
20 All other hands discard everything but Deuces.

Building a Poker Bankroll

“Building a poker bankroll
Many people consider that investing serious money into something that is a mere hobby for them doesn’t make a whole lot of sense, and they’re probably right. On top of that, recreational poker players never really get around to fully understanding the nature of the game and the way it’s supposed to work, and thus they’ll find it extremely difficult to turn it into a lucrative deal. I’ve heard people say you should never risk more money on poker than you can afford to take to the back of your garden and burn. That is just baloney. Every investment needs an initial push to get rolling, and online poker – for a player who knows how he’s supposed to milk it – works the same way.
Anyway, it would appear that nowadays one can start a lucrative poker career without making any sort of investment at all.
The online poker industry is so competitive nowadays that poker rooms would do just about anything to acquire new, active players. So much so, that some of these poker rooms will give players free real money upfront, with almost no strings attached (I said "almost" because you will have to fulfill the turnover requirements on your free money before cash-out). All you need to do is sign up to the poker room in question, and usually insert some sort of bonus ode which will automatically transfer the money into your real money account. After that, you can hit the real-money tables and start a-playing as if it were your own money. As soon as you’ve fulfilled the play-through requirement(s) you may cash out.
Don’t expect anything resembling a healthy bankroll though. These bonuses are not meant to make you rich, but rather to provide a start in online poker for those who may feel shy and not willing to risk anything. The free bankroll will usually be made up of a few tens of dollars, which will only really represent a potent bankroll in some of the lowest limits/stakes games (remember, you have to have about 300BBs in your bankroll a the limit you play at to be properly bankrolled).
That fact that it is indeed possible to start a real bankroll using a few of these free bucks has been proven by many, the mot notorious such experiment being that if Chris Ferguson who built up a $10,000 bankroll out of nothing on Full Tilt Poker without taking advantage of the Full Tilt rakeback deal either.
Certainly, you’ll need some very healthy skills and almost endless patience to come anywhere near his performance, but it is indeed possible in theory.
Despite that, playing on a free bankroll will present you with a series of drawbacks which will hit you pretty hard, especially if you’re a rookie. Being under-bankrolled can very well curve the efforts of a professional player, let alone a rookie. Also, the deal that you get with your free bankroll will usually deprive you of some of the best bonuses and recurring-edge offers (rakeback) that the poker room features for its paying customers.
Thus the rake will hit you much harder, and your "bankroll" will offer you last protection. As they say, looking a gift horse in the mouth though is not something reasonable to do, so you’ll have to make do with what you get.
When playing on a free bankroll, it makes a lot of sense to start out with STTs (Single Table Tournaments). These offer you much increased odds compared to cash games, and they protect your bankroll by completely eliminating the "being under-bankrolled" issue, and taking some of the bite out of the rake.

Start a poker career from scratch

Believe it or not, these days it is possible for a player to start from zero and make his/her way up into the upper echelon of poker aristocracy, or at least reach a level where he/she can make a living playing poker.

In theory, it’s rather easy too. Poker pro Chris Ferguson had a challenge on FullTilt Poker that he could make $10,000 without any starting bankroll, and sure enough he pulled it off, in much less time than people would’ve thought possible. He began by playing freerolls to establish a bankroll he could start with in real money games, then gradually worked his way up, until he hit $10,000. Now, there’s a poll on Full Tilt’s site where people can vote whether they want to see him attempt to reach a million dollars, or consider the challenge fulfilled.

Sure, I’m not about to argue how great an opportunity online poker is for get rich quick schemes with no investment required. After all, saying that not all people possess the qualities that made it possible for Chris Ferguson to pull off something like that, would be a huge understatement. No, you’re not going to find the going that easy, but still the chance to build up a reasonable bankroll and then to generate some extra dough is there for you too. And no, you don’t have to take the money you would’ve taken to the back of your garden and burnt, and invest it. You don’t need to invest anything at all. The competition among the hundreds of online poker rooms now populating cyberspace is for the benefit of everyday players like you and I. It gives birth to bonuses and loyalty offers that would’ve been considered downright foolish not more than 2-3 years ago.

In this respect, there are poker rooms out there that will literally pay you to play, in one form or another. One of the most accessible ways into the ranks of real money online poker is the free bankroll. Quite a few poker rooms offer their players real money, upfront, with no strings attached upon their arrival. Certainly, they won’t be able to cash the money out and be on their way, because that would be the equivalent of robbery, but provided one manages to fulfill the wagering requirements, it’s a great start. The free bankroll will instantly hit your real money account, and you’ll be able to play with it as if it were you own. Once you played it through enough times (you’ve generated enough rake) you’ll be allowed to cash your money out. If you handle things well, you may even end up with more money than the free bankroll you were initially granted.

Cashing out after a successful free bankroll adventure is always a good idea. Chances are, the poker room that provides the free bankroll will not provide the best on and off-table odds for you, but you can’t look a gift horse in the mouth, this will have to do just fine until you get your hands on the funds. Once that’s done, you’ll have a choice of where to invest it. Fist thing’s first: look for a good rakeback deal. Playing with reduced rake will not only make it easier for you to beat the games in the long-run, it’ll also earn you money at the end of each month or week. Playing as a poker prop will land you an exceptional rakeback setup (well above 100%), which can provide a huge push towards the real poker bankroll that you aim for.

Whatever you do, try to avoid cash games as long as you know you’re under bankrolled. Cash games are by far not the ideal choice for bankroll building for several reasons. On one hand, you’ll pay more rake than in a tournament, on the other hand, the nature of play at cash tables will not aid you one bit.
STTs (Single Table Tournaments) are the games for you at this stage. They give you excellent odds, a flimsy opposition (at a 10 handed table, you only need to best 7 players to double up on your buy-in) and they’ll be over in a reasonable amount of time, so they represent a very good return on your time investment too.
Start with lower buy-ins and gradually work your way up into higher-buyin STTs.

Making adjustments to the pot size to strengthen the poker hand

“Sometimes, we just feel this overpowering blind impulse to reassess a big pot. Apart from if we are drunk or tilted, this urge is broadly when we flop a great hand. At other times, we like to comment medium-sized pots, and this is predominantly when we have a ace but not great hand. Sometimes, we want to pore over a small pot and get to showdown cheap, this is when we have a average but probably-best holding.
This is the reason it is so important to try to adjust the pot size to match the quality of your poker hand. If we say that we raised 99 from late position and an opponent called by both blinds. The flop is perfect for us – J93. This is one of those occasions where our highest wish is to just get the money in the middle – and this is why it is so vital to start developing the pot right away!
If the blinds assess to us, we should place a bet – about 2/3 to 3/4 of the pot is a acceptable bet. Occasionally our opponents will have missed the flop completely and fold, but if they have hit a piece of it they will call – or even raise the bet! – And the pot gets nicely bloated already on the flop, increasing our chances of stacking the opponent. By placing a bet, we give ourselves the contingency to win a galactic pot whereas if we look at behind, we will have pains winning a big pot.
Creating pots on early streets with cracking holdings is an essential part of ace regard.
Then what about the medium-sized pots? Well, let’s say that we raised AQ preflop and once again the blinds called. The flop comes QT3. If both investigate to us, we should bet for value, but at the same time a positive measure of care is needed. If we don’t have a acceptable read, we no doubt do not want to remark upon for stacks – the opponent could have two pair or a set. We are wagering to extract money from a straight draw or a top pair with a worse kicker.
The recognized turn check out is to comment behind if the other player checks, with the resolution of calling most rivers if bet into and value-wagering most rivers if checked to.
With bad holdings, our aim is to keep the pot small. If we say that we, in an online poker game, limped A4 suited from late position after a few limpers (to try to flop a straight, flush or bona fide draw). The flop comes AT8, which provides us top pair with a lousy kicker.
In this case, it is in our interests to keep the pot small. If checked to, we should study and see a turn card (if we bet, we are likely only getting called by hands that beat us). If another player bets, we can call on the flop and re-review in retrospect on the turn (or just fold if it is a tight player doing the wagering). If there is a place a bet and a call in front of us, we just throw away this hand. We have no interest to size up a medium-sized or big pot.
Changing the pot size to the strength of your holding is an imperative part of poker. Of course, sometimes it is imperative to mix up our report a bit to not make us too probable, but the above lines are long-term winning recognized plays.